It had been five years or so since my husband and I had visited Bisbee, so when our friends Jody and Greg suggested a weekend jaunt, we were ready. We figured there wouldn't be much to do there but that didn't dissuade us from jumping at the chance. The thought of escaping the heat, if only for a day or two, trumped any concern over time on our hands.

We were already looking for lunch when we approached the Sonoita crossroads. Greg's exhaustive internet search had turned up a restaurant that was inexplicably - yet undeniably - closed. With a sigh we stopped for suggestions at Dos Cabezas Winery. We got one - Grasslands Café - and more. We left carrying a case of local nectar and four stemmed glasses that promised discounts at several wineries down the road. 

By the time we rolled into Bisbee it was late afternoon and the weather a pleasant 85. We checked into El Dorado Suites, an historic hotel overlooking Brewery Gulch and the "oldest continually operated bar" in Bisbee. It's a wonderful spot for families or couples traveling together: our suite featured two bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, bath and balcony. "Awesome," we all cooed as we unpacked and prepared for a walk around town.

Turns out, the second Saturday evening of each month is "Bisbee after Dark," the local gallery "walk." As we headed up the street, I realized Bisbee had changed a bit in the last few years: there were shops and galleries and stores and restaurants ... and they were open!  There was food and drink and musicians accompanying our evening stroll. This was a revelation ...and it was fun!

Thank goodness we had the presence of mind to make a reservation for dinner. Cafe Roka is one of Arizona's top 100 restaurants and it fills up fast. We finished up our gallery tour just in time to eat, and eat we did. We were seated and attended to immediately, even though the restaurant's three levels were all a-hopping. I had the artichoke and mushroom lasagna with three sauces. It came with appetizer, salad and sorbet, for $16.50 - memorable for its taste, price and the historic ambience. My dinner companions' dinner choices brought comparable amenities and aaahs.

We head back to the hotel and fall into bed. We need to be up and at ‘em by 9 to take the tour of the old Bisbee Mine. First it's breakfast at Copper Queen Hotel and then into our slickers for what turns out to be a private tour of the now-defunct mine. Early Sunday morning is the time to beat the crowds, we comment as we disembark, jostling the hordes awaiting the 10:30 tour. Our timing -- or is it luck? -- has been "spot on" all weekend.

As we head back to Tucson, we're already making our plans to return. There's the historic home tour and the 1,000 Stairclimb and the garden tour and the vintage wine tasting and the yoga festival and, and ... So much for time on our hands.

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