Sip Sonora’s once‑forbidden mezcal
What Exactly Is Bacanora?
Born in the rocky hills of neighboring Sonora, Mexico, Bacanora is an artisanal spirit distilled from the agave angustifolia plant, native to the rugged terrains of Sonora. Unlike tequila, which uses blue weber agave, bacanora is crafted by roasting agave hearts in earthen ovens, fermenting the pulp, and double-distilling the liquid.
A Brief History - La Ley Seca & Prohibition
Bacanora's history is as storied as the rugged terrain of Sonora from which it hails. While the spirit's origins date back over 300 years, its production faced significant hurdles during the 20th century due to prohibition laws on both sides of the border.
In Mexico, the religious governor of Sonora outlawed the production and sale of bacanora in 1915, deeming the spirit a "drink of the devil." This ban lasted until 1992, forcing bacanora producers to operate in secrecy for nearly eight decades. Despite the risks, traditional methods were preserved by a network of clandestine distillers, or "vinateros," who worked under the cover of night to keep the legacy alive.
Simultaneously, in the United States, alcohol prohibition from 1920 to 1933 created a robust black market for spirits, including those from Mexico. Bacanora, with its earthy, bold character, found its way across the border through bootleggers, providing a taste of Sonoran tradition to those thirsty for forbidden spirits.
This underground trade helped cement bacanora’s reputation as a rare and cherished spirit, treasured by those who managed to acquire it. Today it’s legally distilled in small batches, roasted in earthen pits like mezcal yet typically lighter and more mineral‑forward—think whispers of smoke, desert herbs, and peppery heat.
Bacanora in Tucson- Where to Sip It
1. Sonora Moonshine Co. — This downtown cocktail den leans all‑in on regional mixology. Order the Paloma Moonshine--a blend of bacanora and guava with a zesty grapefruit twist, served over ice for a refreshing desert escape or go for a neat pour. Be sure to ask about the speakeasy downstairs, where the bartender can make a custom drink you won't find elsewhere.
2. Bar Crisol @ Exo — Tucked into Barrio Viejo, this hidden gem might just look like a regular house, but if the sign says open, walk in to find some of the best selection of bacanoras, sotols, and other regional mezcals. Don't miss their agave tastings every first Thursday of the month.
3. Westbound — Located in Tucson's MSA Annex, this stylish bar and bottle shop is known for its curated selection of regional spirits, including bacanora. Westbound offers a relaxed open-air setting perfect for exploring Sonoran flavors.
4. Agave House Modern Cocina — This popular Main Gate Square staple offers a sleek, inviting space to explore Mexican flavors and agave spirits. With over 100 selections, including bacanora, and creative cocktails like the "Sonoran Heat," it’s a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike.
Bonus: Agave Heritage Festival
If you’re visiting in April, the Agave Heritage Festival takes over Tucson with seminars, chef collabs, and a sprawling Agave Fiesta Grande tasting. It’s the easiest way to sample half a dozen Bacanoras in one weekend (plus meet the vinateros behind the bottles).
Sip‑Smart Tips
Start near, then graduate to cocktails—Bacanora’s delicate smoke can vanish under too much mixer.
Ask bartenders about vino de coyota (unaged) vs. reposado barrels to find your style.
Hydrate and snack plenty; desert spirits pack higher minerality and ABV.
Embracing bacanora not only offers a taste of Sonora's rich cultural heritage but also supports the preservation of traditional distilling practices. Whether you're a seasoned aficionado or new to agave spirits, Tucson provides ample opportunities to explore and appreciate this unique beverage.